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Isla Grande, tranquility and natural beauty

"An Amazing World"

With those words I try to summarize what Isla Grande means, that unique place, where nature is the most appreciated attraction.

Isla Grande is a beautiful Eden, where a soft, fresh breeze blows across the sea all the time.  The beaches are white sand with fantastic coral formations, which reflect a sea of ​​tiny waves and blue and green tones, creating a comforting contrast to the eye and the spirit.

As its name suggests, Isla Grande is the largest of ​​the Rosario Islands. It is approximately 200 hectares, and in it are the three characteristic ecosystems of the islands: the coastal and inland lagoons, the mangroves and the very dry tropical forests. There is a walking path which allows you to get up close to the natural resources of each of the ecosystems.

Mangrove and crystal clear waters of Isla Large
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The adventure

Tuesday 12 February

There in the dock of La Bodeguita de Cartagena, among the crowd of foreigners, we were waiting, my photographer and me. Impatient to go to our destination we walked from one place to another and at exactly 9:00 a.m. we heard the call on the public address system that it was time to go. We were the second to embark, followed by Chileans, Europeans, Americans, Argentines and others.

At 9:16 we  left the Historical Center, the Manga neighborhood on our left and Bocagrande on our right. The new buildings of El Laguito, the sailboats, the cranes and containers of the Port Society, the container ships, boats full of tourists to the islands and the imposing Bay, everything was behind us.

With a light breeze and a resplendent sun, we went by speedboat enjoying the trip that would take us to Isla Grande.

The first thing we saw was Tierrabomba, an island full of mangroves and houses with the characteristics of a forgotten or stagnant town.  Already at only a short distance from Cartagena the color of the sea becomes clear and one, two, three, four, five and until I lose count, I see fishermen in rowing canoes off to work for the day.

Turquoise waters of Tierrabomba
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At 9:37 in the morning two forts welcome us in Bocachica. San Fernando on the right and San Jose on the left. Both were built by the Spaniards to protect the city in times of attacks. The highest fired at the top of the enemy's boats and the small one attacked the casualties.

Behind the San José Fort, Barú can be seen.  It is the second largest island in Colombia, so big that it accompanied us throughout most of our journey. As we pass through the middle of the two forts, we enter the open sea. At that distance we needed only 30 or 40 minutes to get to the Rosario Islands. The blue of the sea weakens the green and the white color of the waves that are formed by the passage of the boats.

At 10:09 the color of the sea changes from blue to light green and immediately we reach the National Park and Coral Islas del Rosario. Up close the blue-green water becomes so transparent that it allows you to appreciate the coral formations. We passed Isla Caguamo (formerly Isla Tortuga), on the right Bonaire Island, then Isla Arena and in front of us Isla Pirata, where we will stay on our way back.  Then appears, the reason for our trip, Isla Grande, the place that "enchanted" the French painter Pierre Daguet, who made her his home, his place of work and the essence of his life.

Islas del Rosario At Pirate Island a mermaid sculpture planted in the sea welcomes us of what promises to be two days in paradise. After the welcome - with tropical fruits we accelerate our exit towards Isla Grande. José María, our driver of the speed boat left us at the edge of the beach known as Gente de Mar. There we started our adventure on foot.

We visit Gente de Mar. Its beaches are compared to a paradise. A beautiful peacock poses for our photographer. The flowers, like viuditas and corallites of different shades, contrast with the green of the lush vegetation of the place. Nearby we appreciate the house of the famous and deceased actress and theater director Fanny Mikey.

With the company of a native as a tour guide, who lends his services in exchange for a voluntary tip, we took a path that the island's own people opened over the years. It is an ecological path where few dare to enter the depths of a forest that protects bushes of banana, palm trees, bongas, quebrachos and infinities of papaya trees in full harvest and the striking chonta bushes loaded with that seed that It is used to sound the maracas.

Isla Grande is much more than sea. Not all visitors have the privilege of knowing the magical beauty of its healthy water lakes, or the ecological trails.

Tunnel of the Caiman, natural tunnel made of mangroves

The Enchanted Lagoon

Ten or fifteen minutes later we arrive at Laguna Encantada, a silent and calm world that hides behind the sea and red mangrove jungles. It is striking that it is connected to the sea.

This body of healthy water, like the others, is a den for marine species such as fish, crabs, shrimps, snails, jellyfish and resting places for migratory birds such as the thong and the duck.

It is called Enchanted because of its phosphorescent luminosity which you can see at night. It is said that just by rubbing the water you can see its luminosity, but it is best to achieve it with the movements that we produce as we move in the water. Apparently the flashes come from the algae that produce a bright light at night.

We waited and watched the bio-luminescence quietly but delighted on the old but firm wooden pier for 20 minutes. Here reigns peace, tranquility and serenity.

We left by the main road where the fig trees predominate and a few meters away we saw dozens of palm trees and species of cabins belonging to a hotel. The funny thing is that everywhere we enter without any problem. None has gates, walls or enclosure that prevent entry or free transit.

Again that sea as a background is the first thing that focuses our sight and it is wonderful each time we see it. It looks like a freshly painted canvas. A sea that you love and a perfect beach to spend all your life.

This sector known as Majagua is full of tourists, most of them are entertained by reading or simply contemplating astonished - like us - the panorama.

Panorama de la Isla del Rosario
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There we decided to continue by foot on the seashore. We walked in the middle of the water separating reefs of coral reefs until we reach other docks that lead us to some other private house or a hotel. We passed without any problem or impediment and then went back down to the beach. Three quays and at each end three shacks or kiosks and the immensity of the sea make this the perfect place to contemplate, dive and appreciate the impressive underwater world and the beauty of its coral reefs.

After two o'clock in the afternoon our boatman picks us up. On our way we met three fishermen who at that time returned to their homes with barracudas, mojarras and snappers that sometimes sell in hotels in the sector.

When we arrived at the hotel where we were staying, we savored a delicious Caribbean lunch: mojarra frita, green salad, rice with coconut, plantain green banana and fish soup.

The high tide forced us to stay on this islet and continue our plans the next day.

The sunsets in the Islas del Rosario Natural Park are a dream. And nothing to say about the evening. Here the stars and the moon shine with more intensity.

Atardecer en las playas de las Islas del Rosario

Wednesday, February 13

The morning of February 13th arrived and with it a new plan for this day that begins with a dreamlike landscape of a beautiful sunrise. We start the trip to Isla Grande, with the idea of ​​reaching the town and learning about its customs.

José, our boatman, leaves us on a dock and tells us to return to Los Cocos or La Coquera the main road, but little by little we enter less demarcated roads which occasionally lead us to the house of someone ... After walking a little in the forest contemplating the vegetation and the iguanas, we met a Chilean family. With them came a native guide. And of course, we joined the group.

The native guide, in addition to guiding tourists, explains at each step the name of the trees such as majagua, totumo, higuito, matarratón and guásimo, among others.

Continuing our ecological route

The Big Island hides another magical world that we are discovering little by little. With its back to the sea is the village or fishing village of 1200 inhabitants. Through there we cross and this space full of colorful houses, some of wood and few of concrete; children everywhere, streets uncovered, forgotten sports courts, a few shops, wooden fences - very few or almost no concrete walls - and many people smiling at our pace. Then our path is interrupted by a small rooster wandering and reminding us how important he is (with his voice). From this land we can see the Presidential Island and beautiful views of the sea.

We cross the town in 20 minutes. Separating ourselves from the group of Chileans, we return to our path of native forest and as if we were asking for Rome, here we are once again Fer and I in the middle of that world where vegetation is our only company.

On the way there are very few houses, frightened iguanas and the odd native, friendly as everyone. We walk from one place to another and although fatigue takes over, we never give up trying to find that place that is so talked about all over the island, and that its inhabitants recognize as an aviary in Palmar.

Learn more about the rosary islands with these passages and packages SEE MORE .

Palmar

At a slow pace and asking about the property we arrived at Palmar and to everyone's surprise it is part of the National Bird Project of Colombia located in Barú.

Palmar is the breeding center for the birds of that aviary. There all the native and exotic species arrive, seized by the Police or by the environmental authorities. In this site they are also guaranteed a better standard of living, under strict conservation measures. After reproduction, the birds are transferred to the Aviary that tourists will soon be able to visit. The project now has 1700 species, some of which are in danger of extinction that will return to their habitat.

Laguna del Silencio

At 1:30 p.m. We left Palmar by boat and another body of clean water that we found on our tour is the Laguna del Silencio, crowded with aguamala.

The lagoon leads to a tunnel in the middle of a thick mangrove swamp. Within its submerged root systems, many species of fish, crustaceans and mollusks find protection and food. It is the ideal place for fishermen.

Those who go to Isla Grande can, like us, enjoy its beautiful white sand beaches, a majestic blue-green sea, and also the magical beauty of its healthy water lakes and ecological walks in the middle of tropical dry forests.

Here ends our adventure for this magical place that we recommend to all travelers arriving in Cartagena.

In Isla Grande there is a world to know.

How to get to Isla Grande

Land Routes

Cartagena - Via Mamonal. Passing through Pasacaballos where you take a ferry to cross the Canal del Dique and then continue by uncovered road to Playa Blanca or the town of Barú. There you take a boat to Isla Grande.

Maritime Route

In Cartagena a boat is taken, the price varies if it is a pass or if it is with a stay, and in less than an hour it is reached if it is by speedboat. It must be paid for separately from the exit tax whose value is 12 thousand pesos.
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Cartagena, Colombia
El Universal, calle 30 N° 17-36, Pie del Cerro
Mon - Fri
8:00 a.m to 12: 00 p.m - 2:00 p.m to 6:00 p.m
649 9090 Ext. 167
E-mail: contactenos@donde.com.co