On a dusty block in Getsemani, a formerly rough-and-tumble neighborhood outside of Cartagena’s walled city, this family-owned restaurant serves up fresh ceviche, hearty empanadas and stiff margaritas. With the sweeping city views from its rooftop bar, Malagana is the perfect starting point to explore Getsemani, which is filled with dance halls, gallery spaces, and talented live bands playing alongside roast chicken joints.